Frequently asked questions.

Questions, questions...pick from one of our frequently asked questions, gardening topics or landscape design & construction blurbs below to learn more about how we increase the usefulness and value of your property. If your answer isn't here, just email or call! Go ahead, try and stump us with a plant question...or show us that really ugly backyard!

16 Questions to ask your designer. (Print this out and put your designer on the hot seat.)
1. If we want to revise our plan once after our meeting, will you update it at no charge?
2. Will your plan be scaled? If appropriate, will the plan encompass my entire property? Do you bring extra copies to our meeting?
3. Will the plan be accompanied by an estimate for the work?
4. Can you also give me phases or unit prices?
5. Can you prepare plans for work I will complete myself?
6. Do you bring plant books, catalogs and product samples for me to our presentation?
7. Are you affiliated with a Nursery where we can see the plants before the installation?
8. Can I get estimates from other landscape companies using the supplied plan?
9. Are you able to estimate and coordinate other construction, ie; decks, patios, spas and fencing?
10. Are you familiar with availability, sizes, varieties and unit prices for plants locally?
11. Are you familiar with unit prices for construction finishes such as brick, flagstone, etc?
13. Can you supply references?
14. Are you a licensed landscape architect?
15. Do you have a portfolio? Has your work been published or received awards?
16. Are you recommended by respected suppliers, such as Marenakos, Mutual Materials and Classic Nursery?
(Our answers to all these questions is YES!)

When should I plant?

We try to make landscaping an easy to understand and enjoyable process for you. As part of this effort, we create landscapes utilizing readily available, low-maintenance plants that are hardy in our climate. You will want a plant warranty, so it is in all of our best interest as well to choose reliable materials when we look at plant materials. Except for certain situations, we generally select hardy broadleaf evergreen plants with a mix of deciduous materials for seasonal interest. We limit the use of annuals in the landscape, preferring the value and recurring color of perennials. We do encourage annuals in containers and in seasonal color rotation planting.

Horticulturally, FALL is the best time to plant. The season is cooling and existing planted vegetation is more forgiving of rigors of transplant shock. Best of all, we have our annual Fall sale.

WINTER can be a good time to plant as plants are fully dormant and are resistant to transplant shock. Our landscape crews may be more readily available to concentrate on your project during winter as well. In addition, drainage issues are more easily seen and corrected.

SPRING offers the best availability of plants and "feels" like the right season to plant. This time of year is very busy and our crews can book out 90 days or more in advance! While we can always service you in a timely manner, be sure to plan ahead and call us early if you want a Spring installation.

With our cool and temperate climate, SUMMER can also be a great time to plant, especially if you have automated irrigation. Many people worry about watering during the hotter season and this may be an issue for some folks. That noted, the sun will get those roots and new foliage established in time for the cool fall season. We will usually recommend that you plant using a natural water-retention additive for summer planting. If you water adequately and take generally good care of your landscaping, our one-year warranty may be the assurance you need to complete a successful Summer landscaping project.

How about retaining walls, patios, etc.? Look into these wall types:

ROCK
Rock walls may be constructed from ledgestone or boulders. Boulders are generally measured in “man” size, roughly 1-5 man basalt or granite. Allow an additional foot below grade and drainage behind the wall. Make sure you have good trackhoe access for large rock, at least a clear 8 foot opening. Smaller format “1 to 2 man” stone walls can also be built by hand. Typically, walls are measured by "vertical square foot" or "face footage" (FF). Cost: $20-30 per FF. $40+ FF for ledgestone. If the slope is not too severe, we can also save on the budget by creating an aesthetically pleasing "dry stream" out of softball-sized river cobble mixed with bowling ball sized small basalt boulders. Cut into the slope, this type of retaining can channel water as well as minimize erosion and the cost savings can be put into accent planting. Cost: $25+ per SF.

WOOD
Generally we will recommend pressure treated Douglas fir at a minimum 4" (4x4x8) size. Allow for visqueen or waterproofing behind the wall. Perpendicular "deadman" timbers are placed into the slope at regular intervals. Cost $40+ per FF.

MODULAR BLOCK WALLS
Precast concrete units. Hand stacked by a skilled crew, this type of construction has the advantage of forming a very uniform geometry of wall and steps and can be built using alternating wall and cap colors. A variety of products are available from inexpensive smaller blocks to more architectural grade "Pisa" type stone. Cost: $40+ per FF.

OTHER TYPES OF WALLS
At the high end of the spectrum, you can elect to have a concrete wall built, then finished (typically to complement your homes existing finishes) using stucco, dryvit, brick or any number of "cultured stone" products. Cost: $50+ per FF.

Paths & patios

CRUSHED ROCK
For the simplest of exterior finished paths, we recommend the use a 5/8"(-) basalt crushed rock with an underlying weed barrier and a construction-grade vinyl edge. You can also select a cobbled rock, steel, aluminum or brick/paver edge. This type of path forms a good basis for a perimeter route or path in a natural area. Crushed rock can also serve as a base for a later installation of concrete or a paver. You'll want to avoid pea gravel or drainrock, as this tends to give way underfoot. Cost: $5 to $9+ per SF.

CONCRETE
Concrete is typically designated as smooth finished, hard finished with a broom or as exposed aggregate. You should have a plan that shows tooled scoring or cut joints at regular, sensible intervals. Try not to allow any clear areas larger than 6x6ft without a score or joint. You can also add color in a variety of ways. Stamped concrete is a unique way to get the look of a paver without going to the expense. In this type of construction, a flexible form is pressed into the concrete and typically two colors are added and hand-finished into the area. Cost $16+ per SF (concrete), $20+ (stamped).

PAVERS
A myriad of concrete and stone pavers are available from interlocking units to antique roman cobble. Set in a base of sand or mortared onto a concrete base, this type of paving can create a pleasing effect. Edges can be set in a mortared base or set against a rigid steel or aluminum form. Cut to form a complex geometry in basketweave or herringbone, accented with edge and field colors and mixed and matched, pavers can create limitless patterns. Cost: $35+ per SF (sandset), $45+ (mortared).

FLAGSTONE
Flagstone is requested more often than any other walk or patio finish. Complementing any home, a finished flagstone walk or patio is perhaps the most attractive type of walk or patio. Flagstone is available in a wide array of stone types and thickness. Flagstone is sold by the ton and coverage per ton is critical to determining cost. The thicker the stone, the less coverage you'll get. Look for 2"(+) thickness for sandset installations, 2"(-) for mortared work. In addition, look for stone with a regular, uniform flat finish and a dense structure. This will create a comfortable walk surface that will absorb less water and thus not crack as easily during a winter freeze. Cost $35+ per SF.

DECKS
Most local decks are constructed with a pressure treated Douglas fir structure and cedar or recycled timber walk surface, such as Trex or TimberTech. Above 32" height in many municipalities you will need a railing. After completion, you may want to color stain a cedar deck and/or seal the finish to preserve the woods integrity. Although a deck may represent the most cost per square foot, if it is cantilevered over a sloped that otherwise might require retaining; it can actually save in overall costs. Cost: $30+ per SF. $40+ per SF for recycled or other manufactured lumber. Railing cost: $90+ per lineal foot. Steps: $40+ per SF.

Good places to review rock or paving products are: Trendset Products (Redmond), Marenakos Rock Center (Issaquah), Mutual Materials (Bellevue) or Rock Mountain Products (Redmond/Ames Lake area). Keep in mind that minimum costs may apply, both for work that you contract directly and to allow for delivery. For example, a trackhoe operator might charge a minimum price of $1200 or so to come out and do any work at your home or a load of stone may cost a minimum of $300+ to have delivered.

Should I choose pavers or flagstone?

Skilled installation crews are building paths and patios all over the Puget Sound today. If you are working with OPC, we may already have given you the free hardscape catalog at our initial on site meeting at your home. For the most part, the advantage to stone is just that, using real stone as a material, though it may be somewhat irregular as a random flagstone and vary in thickness as a dimensional (squared/rectangular) stone. For this reason, it takes more time typically to set - and takes a bit more time and budget investment. Tumbled or dimensional pavers may be a good option, as they can be set in many colors and patterns and are regular in aspect and appearance. Often times we will suggest a tumbled paver patio that integrates well with the home's architecture and perhaps a random flagstone landing, step or path surface as a walk through the landscape. Good resources here can be found on our links page and include marenakos.com, mutualmaterials.com, trendset.net and belgard.com.

Can you tell me about my drainage?

A well-conceived drainage system may not be the most exciting thing that you will purchase, but you generally know when you need one. The problem with most locally installed perforated pipe type installations is the method of construction. Most perf-type systems won't last more than five years or so due to pipe siltation buildup. In our experience completing a number of projects for the City of Bellevue as well as a range of residential systems, we've just about seen it all. The key to most per type systems is a working outflow at the end of the drainage pattern and one or more "cleanouts" (a sweep or a "T") that will enable you to periodically flush the system out with a hose. This will give you the ability to wash out fine silt and debris, keeping the drain clear for a much longer period.

How do I control weeds and pests?

One of the problems with creating a rich environment for planting is that it can become a rich environment for weeds as well. Controlling weeds does not necessarily mean continually applying herbicides. The best way to inhibit weed growth is to introduce groundcovers that will compete with undesirable weeds. Bark mulch can also slow weed growth, but does so in part by depleting your soils of nitrogen, thereby slowing the growth of desirable plants. It also breaks down to "become" part of the soil and, as such, must be purchased anew each year. As we are known for environmental outreach efforts, at OPC we do not recommend chemical use, but, on occasion selected products can be considered. A closely planted groundcover such as native bearberry or salal can save you thousand in future bark installations if planted early. IPM or Integrated Pest Management offers a holistic approach to managing your outdoor environment. Essentially, IPM dictates that you take a moment to try to understand what is happening in an ecological sense and respond in a way that reflects your own tolerance for the pest, weed or plant disease, while using a "least-toxic" approach. Our professional staff can help you make the right decisions and offer you appropriate products and research materials.

What about Covid-19 and OPC?

It is our hope that, in the midst of these strange times, OPC clients know that we will of course make every effort to work cleanly and safely so as to beautify your surroundings while minimizing any risk. None of our staff have tested positive and all of the team is encouraged to stay home to the extent that their tasks will allow. We will continue to disinfect and provide hand sanitizer to our staff. With digital agreements, we and offer online payments. We have instructed all team members to use proper hygiene and maintain social distancing. Our staff are also instructed to stay home if they are sick or experiencing flu-like symptoms until they are cleared to return to work. Designers are working remotely and videoconferencing while still visiting job sites to manage - and we are minimizing any personal contact, actively cleaning our equipment and working outside - in the fresh air. We hope to continue as long as prudence and safety will allow.

Regarding your project, we would be remiss if we didn't note to you that a quality outdoor renovation will not only make your home more enjoyable during these times in which you may be home with family, but is in fact the best investment that you can make right now. Of course we will say this, but our work will add equity to your home and should actually add more value than the budget that you set with us. We can also put your project together in smaller phases, so that you can get the benefits of an overall cleanup for example - and later add paving, plants, pots or other items that you desire. Let us make a beautiful and lasting outdoor environment while you are working from home or spending more precious time with family! It always helps to lift our moods when we are outside enjoying the warmer weather and new growth. Whether to plan a future project or just enjoy the beauty it brings, we are grateful to be able to remain open for business, to provide an outlet for those that are home and to keep at least a small piece of the economy going. Whether you just want to take advantage of the time to plan or are ready to start an outdoor project, we will be here to assist you in any way we can. We hope that we can all remember to remain calm and to be kind, compassionate and remember those that may need extra assistance at this time of uncertainty.

How do I know if a landscape architectural plan is a good value?

One way to determine whether a landscape architectural plan might be a good value for you is to consider how long you will live in your home. Cut that time in half and assume that you will be done with all of your landscape phases within that period. Try to project how much you will have been comfortable investing in the landscape (including decks, walks and patios, etc.) by that future date. Now, take 5% of that number, and if you can have plans prepared for 5 to 8% or less, design plans may be a good value for you. Again, please note that planning costs are not based upon your budget, but on the complexity of the project. Just being able to discuss ideas clearly with your spouse and methodically "plant the lavender on the corner of the patio" yourself during phase two has good value once you know where everything is going. All of our plans include budget estimates based upon the discussions.

So how about water features?

A waterfall, stream or re-circulating pond can be an attractive and calming amenity for any home. The pleasant sound of splashing water and the beauty of colorful fish can create a wonderful sense of serenity in even a small backyard. At OPC, we have been designing water features for years. We know that a successful waterfall or pond should look like a natural element in the landscape. Creating that effect involves utilizing a wide range of materials, including rock, concrete, PVC pipe and pump assemblies. There are also considerations regarding placement, excavation of soil, electrical and plumbing utilities and access for equipment. As we consult with you on your home site, you have some choices in creating your water environment. First, we can simply mark out an area on the ground, outlining a possible pond and falls and write up an estimate for the work. You can then watch it come together as what we call a "field installation". You may also have a landscape architectural plan drawn up for the area as well. If so, you may want to allow for additional work such as expanded patios, walks or other design elements or perhaps go ahead and master plan the entire site. After seeing a few different ponds and waterfalls, you'll notice that our ponds and water features are built quite a bit differently from the average installation. For example:

OPC water features are easier to care for - The OPC pond can utilize a debris skimmer, much like a swimming pool. Other pond installations may have a filter around the pump area. These filters are often difficult to reach and clean and can diminish your pumps effectiveness over time. Our skimmer assembly is cleaned simply by lifting a hidden cover, taking out a reusable filter and rinsing it with a hose. Second, we have additional filters in the skimmer and at the falls area. Finally, we provide a bacterial additive and ask that you purchase inexpensive fish to create a relatively self-sustaining "ecosystem".

We offer a range of pond options - We can provide overflow assemblies, pump timers, self-filling valves, pond lighting and a wide range of aquatic plants and different types of flagstone, rock and paving materials. Our ponds are built to last - We provide a one-year guarantee for all of our construction. Our high-efficiency pumps are a little more expensive, but can save you in monthly electrical costs. (Keep in mind that your pond pump is essentially a little motor that runs virtually all of the time). We also use a "double liner" construction that utilizes a fabric "underliner" beneath the heavy gauge butyl pond liner. This minimizes the possibility of rips and tears along vertical faces of the pond. Most companies use a sand base that only covers flat areas well. We also give you a printed "owners manual".

Should I treat the native edge differently? Click Here To View Native Plant Information

During the process of development, most residential property areas were cleared of trees and native vegetation. Soil may have been artificially graded to site your home and the grounds around your home may have been further compacted. Native alder, broom and blackberry, among other things, may be coming up all around your property. You may have a neighbor that can peek at you from behind a thinned-out native edge area. The key to maximizing the potential of your native areas is to understand how you might use it, if at all. Do you just need screening? Would you like to walk through it? Are there a lot of non-native "weed" species disturbing it? These and other questions will yield the answers that will help us determine how to improve these areas. In many cases, we will re-introduce native tree selections such as Hemlock and Douglas Fir to screen and fill as needed. Dogwood, Mountain ash, Serviceberry and Maple can offer seasonal color. Blueberry, lingonberry, evergreen huckleberry and a wide variety of native plants can make your natural areas interactive and educational, attract wildlife and add to your properties value.

What about irrigation & lighting?

Irrigation
Sprinkler systems offer a convenient way to keep your plant materials healthy. At OPC, we can specify almost any type of irrigation system. With scores of guaranteed watering system completed throughout King County, we typically use Rainbird 1800 or Hunter series "pop-up" type heads for shrub and small lawn zones and Hunter spray heads for larger bed and lawn areas. Ever concerned about conserving water (and saving you money), we will also specify a rain sensing device that will "sense" when it is wet in order to keep your system from coming on unnecessarily. We will also locate our green valve boxes in bed areas (not in your lawn as some landscape companies do), pre-program your automatic clock for you and install additional hose bibbs at your request.

Lighting
Low voltage lighting adds a dramatic dimension to your landscape, giving you the ability to see landscape elements at night, define circulation around your home and giving you greater security. We will usually provide you with a consultation at night to best show our lighting fixtures and to make sure they are located to your best advantage. A myriad of fixtures are available. Under most circumstances, we will typically specify a high-quality copper "mushroom-type" pathlight that will patina nicely with age. Your lighting system can be integrated with your home computer, simply switched from inside your home or set with motion sensors. For most lighting systems, we will simply install an outdoor transformer and timer/photocell. This allows the system to come on automatically at dusk throughout the year, while being timed to shut off at a prescribed time.

What about soils & bed finishes?

Providing good soils for you means more to us than just bringing out compost. Our local glacial till soils generally lack a great deal of nutrient and may not be the best medium for ornamental shrubs and perennials. In addition, with a new home, you may be looking at fill soils or over-turned soil as a result of recent construction. We can fix that. Rototilling your bed soils is the first key to a healthy planting environment. Liming your soils may also be necessary. Finally tilling in or using a topdress of compost can create the "diggable", nutrient rich environment that your new landscape desires. Keep in mind that it may not always be prudent to create a "nutrient-rich" soil environment. Native plant materials may actually prefer to be planted in un-amended local glacial-till soils. Cedar Grove compost and Vegetable Garden Mix are available, as well as Fertil-Mulch, medium-fine bark and gravel. Bulk products are available for pick up or delivery.

How do I care for my new landscape?

We appreciate the significant investment to have work coordinated by OPC and the success of your landscape is important to us. We would like you to consider us as your horticultural resource in the months ahead. To help your plants get well established, it’s important for you to nurture them over the next year. While we have taken care to select and guarantee a variety of low-maintenance plant materials, you will need to monitor and care for your new plants to ensure that they take root and grow.

Proper watering is a key to your plants survival. During the warmer season from mid-April to late September, your plants may need watering every day on dry days. During the first year, some new plants may need supplemental watering even if you have an irrigation system. If you have sprinklers, it’s important to keep your irrigation system properly timed and adjusted. In the Puget Sound, sprinklers are normally turned off from Halloween to Easter. In the fall, systems are “blown out” to minimize water in the lines and the potential for pipes bursting in freezing temperatures.

Caring for your lawns need not be as complicated as the big box stores or garden pundits would have you believe. Lawns don't need fertilizing and weed control applications three times a year as we are frequently told. These are falsehoods designed to get you to buy product, so take care not to over-apply garden chemicals. A recent King County survey found chemicals in local streams reaching toxic levels during the spring season. Many believe this to be caused by excessive and unnecessary application of garden chemicals. The truth is that your lawn only needs a single application of 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer right around Labor Day. We will also encourage you to lime your lawn perhaps 2x annually and aerate at that time as well. Good dates for this are Easter and Labor day.

Native plants may not need any supplemental fertilizer and you might not need to fertilize your ornamental plants until the spring after the installation is complete. Newly seeded lawns need to be kept somewhat moist, so depending upon your soil and sun orientation, you may need to water every day to get the seed completely germinated or sod fully rooted. This may take three weeks for germination. Lawn seed can be fully walkable at about six weeks and with a new lawn and intermittent rains, you are advised to hand seed to fill in as needed. Lawns may have some difficulty fully establishing between Memorial Day and Labor Day and may require additional soil with seeding.

You will likely notice some weeds in the bed areas. That’s natural, as we have created an environment that is healthy for plants. Early and methodical weed control will help to make minimize your garden care. Start looking for weeds in March and April and use a hand tool such as a “hula-hoe” to remove weeds before they go to seed. Keep in mind that weeds can be an indicator of other issues; clover indicates soil compaction and low fertility, buttercup can be a symptom of excessive moisture. If you plan to spray weed killer, look for a product called “Burnout”, made from vinegar and clove oil. It’s devastating on weeds. Put it in a pump sprayer and keep it in the garage, ready to go. You might also try a teakettle of boiling water on more limited weed areas. You can also control many chewing insect by mixing up a diluted solution of 1 part laundry soap and 10 parts water to be a natural born killer.

Prune your shrubs only when they get larger than you desire, lightly and carefully. Unless you are cultivating a hedge, most shrubs don’t want to be groomed into tight shapes. Be mindful of pruning considerations regarding plant bloom, fruit and overall shape. A good rule to follow is to not take off more than 10% of your plants foliage when pruning.

Sometime in the future, you may want to add additional shrubs, groundcover or perennials. We can help you with advice and plant lists. Your business is important to us. We succeed by honoring our commitments to our families, our work and to the environment. In this regard, our business achievements are measured by your referrals. If you will, please take a moment to submit a positive review on our behalf when the project is completed.